Finally got around to finishing up Jack Series. Turned out my goto 6011 rod worked out just fine.
Working out a t-slot riser plate for the Rivett. With the tooling I am using in the turret it is hard if not impossible to get the cut-off tool close enough to spindle and keep the turret from running into the cross-slide. The t-slot riser plate will allow enough freedom of movement to accommodate the shorter turret tools.
I have a few Brown and Sharpe Tool Posts for Square Tools – They may be a little big but I am going to figure out a riser plate to mount these with for shits and giggles.
Small project for the Rivett 918s – Well, nothing is small of course and relieved that the tapping operation for the 1/4 27 “standard/popular lamp harp thread” is working great. This particular final blank is slated to have hand made marbles (not the ones pictured here – much nicer/larger ones coming soon).
Working with the Rivett Lathe is the most fun part of this prototype. Created custom bushing for tapping tool (more on that later) and pleased with the finish on the turning operation. Used ball end mill for creating concave “marble holder” – will experiment with sizes and such depending on marbles. Lastly, will certainly change diameters and work on other contours as time permits.
First visit this trip to Maine….got a switch panel I needed for 3ph rotary converter setup. A nice yet unmarked 3″ sine bar a few little vee blocks and some nice ground lathe bits. Coil was 75 cents so I took a chance it might work on my Rivett brake…no dice. A little research shows it is more than likely for an early mag starter. All this stuff plus the Rockwell Carbide Tool Grinder project from previous post… $29!
Found this at Liberty Tool today. Motor spun in reverse on 120v so good enough for me to take home and mess with. I think it is wired for 240 so will play with it more when I get her home.
Quick photos from the back of my Suburu…
After further review it is wired for 120. I diagnosed the wiring on the switch and it is wired for 120. The switch handle was loose so it would not engage the forward position. Will update with wire details later but typically the wires coming out of the motor are labeled – T1, T2, T3, etc and if I recall a white stripe wire(s) for line in. From what I understand about motors, if you can’t read/identify the wires then there is no way to measure/figure them out.
Another note: this wiring had a 115v Capacitor inline with one of the “line-in” wires? This makes no sense to me and I think was added later in it’s life for no good reason. Too small for starter or run capacitor from what I have read.
So I gave it rest after my initial foray into messing with the Pycom device I got back to it. Updated Atom, updated Pymakr plugin – still need to update firmware. More on that later. I found the issue with my USB serial connection woes…turns out (for whatever reason, my TX jumper was disconnected. The pretty much makes serial connection flakey at best. Jumper in place and board communication is going well.
Decided the cabinet was too far gone even for me:) I generally like the as found paint but this was pretty far gone. Leaving the lathe alone (for now). To do that correct it would have to be taken down which is something I don’t have in me at the moment. Lathe is working good so leaving well enough alone.