Found this Hammond guide in an antique center of all places. Made another slide for it to fit my grinder.
Direct or Indirect Dial Readings?
Ordered replacement belts based on existing belts. Easy enough when you can still read the old belts…B83 x 3.
What I did not factor on is how poorly installed the existing ones were. Slack was completely taken out of adjustment and spacers under the motor mounts. Removed all that nonsense and reordered some B86s so I can have room to adjust.
Motor appears not original of course but reinstalled after cleanup of all the motor mounting aperatus.
More pics coming of reinstalled motor and belts once the belts get here.
Couple of different collet Chucks, one speed chuck and the other lever action. Both used on my Sheldon 10″ EXL.
Ortlieb Lever Collet Closer
Jacobs Model 50
The CK has a D1-6 spindle configuration. Came with, at first glance, a decent Cushman 3 Jaw Chuck. Still need to take a closer look at the chuck and maybe teardown and rebuild.
Needed a cheater bar, small 1″ black pipe, to slide over chuck key handles more for grip than for leverage. The cam locks were stiff but not stuck. Chuck came off with little fuss.
Could not help myself when this shop made cabinet came up for bid at the 2020 Cabin Fever Expo. Got lucky and fit under a machine base that had a makeshift set of storage that I never was that thrilled with. Almost the same color green and fit like a not so good fitting glove but way better than before.
Well it had to happen at some point. Consolidation of all the resistors I have gathered over the years. I actually wanted the drawer space back for the growing numbers of micro controllers and boards so I managed to clean out 24 drawers and one complete (well almost) cabinet.
Adafruit to the rescue as I am pushing my project to be portable.
One lithium ion polymer battery and an Adafruit PowerBoost 500 Charger later I was able to get the project untethered from a power source.
Will figure out battery life and such in the near future.
Couple of interesting notes: I already went the alkaline battery route – it worked to a point but the are too bulky for my applications and they had about a 4 hour life span. The combination of Adafruits PowerBoost 500 Charger and the LiPo seems to be (so far) ideal.
The PowerBoost 500 does not work for this application (probably no application) if you connect it via the 2.1mm Power Jack. The Power Jack needs at least 6V to operate properly. I have not yet evaluated using the USB power input. My initial finding showed that it did not work but I am a bit skeptical about my USB connection. Does not really matter much as I know have the PowerBoost 500 connected right to GND and VIN which works great!
Further reading on the subject it appears the only way to power the Arduino from the PowerBoost 500 is the way I ended up doing it — straight to GND and VIN. Makes sense as the USB optional output appears to be for charging other units, not powering a device.