Ordered replacement belts based on existing belts. Easy enough when you can still read the old belts…B83 x 3.
What I did not factor on is how poorly installed the existing ones were. Slack was completely taken out of adjustment and spacers under the motor mounts. Removed all that nonsense and reordered some B86s so I can have room to adjust.
Motor appears not original of course but reinstalled after cleanup of all the motor mounting aperatus.
More pics coming of reinstalled motor and belts once the belts get here.
In preparation of getting a new fangled VFD to power the Monarch I removed the no longer safe/necessary three phase circuit breaker and previously gutted mag switch. I will probably reuse the drum switch to control the VFD. More on VFD install soon.
Took a break from cleaning today and spent some time contemplating leveling feet. There are 8 Leveling feet and 8 “lagging” holes on the Monarch CK from what I can gather from the manuals and as witnessed on my machine. Basically 8 Holes are threaded for the leveling screws and the other 8 are unthreaded for lagging to the floor as suggested in the manual.
After closer inspection of my lathe two of the leveling holes have broken off bolts in them. Both of which have no good purchase – one not at all and the other just a useless fragment of remaining bolt.
I have done my fair share of removing rusty screws from engine blocks using various methods but have never removed anything this substantial and or anything this seemingly “STUCK” before. These bolts are easily 5/8″ and the fact that they sheared off tells me they are really really stuck.
Option 1: Go the nuclear route and weld a nut onto them and see if I cant get them out. Penetrating oil does seem to absorb into these so maybe that is a good sign they might come free. I would really like to use these original leveling holes if I can. Option 2: Go less nuclear and drill/ez-out method with much heat. As mentioned the fact that they sheared off in the first place leads me to believe this wont end well. Option 3: Forget about them and just use the other holes with adjustable leveling feet. I like this less as I feel they put the leveling feet in the original spots for a reason and that they are the best place for them (maybe overthinking this).
Update 1: went with Option 2 to start sans the heat (did not have time to remove skid cross member). Well well, started drilling the one that was flush and if the damn thing didn’t start moving! I will take that win. Second one, well not so much fun yet. Drilled out 3/8″ hole and used 1/2″ ez out with not a budge. Heat comes tomorrow.
One last soak in Penetrating Oil over night and again at lunch time – soak overnight did nothing, don’t expect latest soak to help much either. Torch time tonight.
Torch work did not cut it….could not get bolt hot enough. Went down the continue drilling route and re-tapped it. It worked better than expected and in short time have the hole finished an tapped.
Doing a bit of a cleanup on the CK. I am trying to avoid a teardown and rebuild but will know more as I get into the cleanup. For now, so far, all looks good and not planning on any major teardown.
Turns out I need to pull off the clutch and sheave to get the belt guard off for better cleanup – I am going to pass on the procedure for now and work around it. End gear train most troublesome to clean/get at but will be tackled soon.
The CK has a D1-6 spindle configuration. Came with, at first glance, a decent Cushman 3 Jaw Chuck. Still need to take a closer look at the chuck and maybe teardown and rebuild.
Needed a cheater bar, small 1″ black pipe, to slide over chuck key handles more for grip than for leverage. The cam locks were stiff but not stuck. Chuck came off with little fuss.
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