Working out a t-slot riser plate for the Rivett. With the tooling I am using in the turret it is hard if not impossible to get the cut-off tool close enough to spindle and keep the turret from running into the cross-slide. The t-slot riser plate will allow enough freedom of movement to accommodate the shorter turret tools.
T-Slot Riser Plate
Cut-off Tool on Riser
I have a few Brown and Sharpe Tool Posts for Square Tools – They may be a little big but I am going to figure out a riser plate to mount these with for shits and giggles.
Not a restoration but a good clean up of the Walker Turner Carbide Grinder. Cast iron table surfaces came out real nice, all working surfaces also cleaned up well. Put back together and added a few new AO Wheels…runs like a charm.
The journey begins….delivered the Tormach Lathe to the shop. Spent a few days un-crating, getting off the pallet, made space in my cluttered shop. Next step to run 220 service to it and start making some chips.
First visit this trip to Maine….got a switch panel I needed for 3ph rotary converter setup. A nice yet unmarked 3″ sine bar a few little vee blocks and some nice ground lathe bits. Coil was 75 cents so I took a chance it might work on my Rivett brake…no dice. A little research shows it is more than likely for an early mag starter. All this stuff plus the Rockwell Carbide Tool Grinder project from previous post… $29!
Found this at Liberty Tool today. Motor spun in reverse on 120v so good enough for me to take home and mess with. I think it is wired for 240 so will play with it more when I get her home.
Quick photos from the back of my Suburu…
Walker Turner/Rockwell Carbide Tool Grinder
Walker Turner Name Plate
Rockwell Name Plate on Back of Grinder
Furnas Forward/Reverse Switch
Light
Adjusting Knobs
Wheel View
Table in the Rough
Switch Details
After further review it is wired for 120. I diagnosed the wiring on the switch and it is wired for 120. The switch handle was loose so it would not engage the forward position. Will update with wire details later but typically the wires coming out of the motor are labeled – T1, T2, T3, etc and if I recall a white stripe wire(s) for line in. From what I understand about motors, if you can’t read/identify the wires then there is no way to measure/figure them out.
Another note: this wiring had a 115v Capacitor inline with one of the “line-in” wires? This makes no sense to me and I think was added later in it’s life for no good reason. Too small for starter or run capacitor from what I have read.
Decided the cabinet was too far gone even for me:) I generally like the as found paint but this was pretty far gone. Leaving the lathe alone (for now). To do that correct it would have to be taken down which is something I don’t have in me at the moment. Lathe is working good so leaving well enough alone.
Not to be confused (as I did in earlier post) to the Geometric Die Heads. After much digging around I have found tons of Geometric Die Heads, a few odd brands but nothing like the GTD one pictured below.
This GTD version seems to be adjustable over a particular range of diameters. The markings on the chasers (the only ones with it) say 18 18. Typical Type D chasers are specific to diameter and tpi – say 5/16-18 for instance. This GTD version is marked 1/2″ so basically the 18 18 chasers would be useful for 5/16-18 and not much else I am afraid.
The D type chasers are available, yet to find the J Hook looking ones that are used in the GTD Model.
Greenfield Tap and Die
18 18 TPI Denotion
Side view of Chaser
Other Side of Chaser – smooth, not slots, no chance that type Ds would fit.
18 TPI on 1/4″ Aluminum
Note knurled collar, allow the for the adjustment of range of stock diameters
In deep now. Have the doors off the base, all sides initially stripped. Probably won’t strip inards not the actual lathe unit as I don’t want to tear it down at this point. More prep to do but making progress.
