Some recent goings on in the shop and in the craft room.
Small Sculpture 
Gardener 
Gardener – initial look 
Small Sculpture 
Small Sculpture 
Bike Frame 
Chuck Cover Prototype 
Small Sculpture 
Small Sculpture 
Chuck Uncovered
Practice Tubing Prepped
Dialed in the BenchMaster Mill and made a few practice pieces for Tig experiment. I am sure these will not look so good after the Tig experiment but looking forward to that just the same. These are 4130 straight gauge tubes 1- 1/8″ .035 wall notched at 90 degrees to to mate with 1-1/2″ .083 wall.
Tubing Practice
Belt Change – Motor Removal
Ordered replacement belts based on existing belts. Easy enough when you can still read the old belts…B83 x 3.
What I did not factor on is how poorly installed the existing ones were. Slack was completely taken out of adjustment and spacers under the motor mounts. Removed all that nonsense and reordered some B86s so I can have room to adjust.
Motor appears not original of course but reinstalled after cleanup of all the motor mounting apparatus.
Old Cracked Belts 
Plate Bracket As Found 
Motor Removed via Pallet Jack 
Motor Out 
Adjustment 
Motor Name Plate 
Floating Base Plate Brackets Cleaned Up 
Motor Cleaned Up 
Plate Bracket Reinstalled 
Restricted Air Flow
More pics coming of reinstalled motor and belts once the belts get here.
Headstocks
Singer 241-11 
Sheldon EXL 
Monarch CK
Derailleur A-daptor Kit
Created adaptor for Salsa Cutthroat so it could handle some road gearing. Sram 2x 10spd mtb derailleur rated up to a 38t big ring needed to be elevated.
Original hanger on left 
Extended hanger 
Side view of new hanger 
Installed 
Installed side view 
Big rings..no problem.
Collet Chucks – 2-1/4 x 8 Threaded Spindle Mount
Couple of different collet Chucks, one speed chuck and the other lever action. Both used on my Sheldon 10″ EXL.
Ortlieb Lever Collet Closer
Ortlieb Lever Collet Chuck 
Steel Collets 
List of Rubberflex Collets 
Type 30 
Mount Hardware for Sheldon EXL 
2 1/4 x 8 Threaded Spindle 
Closer and Collets 
Collet in good shape 
Two Collets worn but each of them have a corresponding good one. 
Hole for spanner wrench bad but usable. Suggest drilling a new one.
Jacobs Model 50
Jacobs Model 50 
Jacobs Model 50 
Closer look 
2 1/4-8 threaded spindle 
Couple of small nicks 
Nick 1 
Nick 2 
Extra Collets above and beyond full set 
2 1/4-8 Spindle
Monarch CK – Accoutrements
Thanks to the folks at Lost Creek Machine I was able to afford an Aloris CXA Toolpost with various holders. Also snagged Jacobs 16n drill chuck with MT3 shank!
T-Nut is a little oversized for my compound! This will allow me to make for a nice fit.
Jacobs 16n 
Aloris CXA 
Aloris CXA 
Aloris Cutoff Holder 
Aerial View 
Aloris #16
Closer to making chips. New belts and VFD have arrived too. Need to continue cleaning and change oil in headstock but won’t be long now.
Monarch CK – Vintage Electrical Removed
In preparation of getting a new fangled VFD to power the Monarch I removed the no longer safe/necessary three phase circuit breaker and previously gutted mag switch. I will probably reuse the drum switch to control the VFD. More on VFD install soon.
Looks worse than it is. All motor leads are in good shape. 
Major cleaning of motor vents in progress. 
Breaker, empty mag starter box and drum switch removed. 
Motor leads remain.
Plastic Sucks – Canvas is Cool
Had to use the reamers the other day and just had to do something about the bullshit plastic “tool roll”. Yeah my sewing needs work but end result is better than the plastic nonsense.
Plastic Bullshit 
Canvas Replacement 
Ahhh..feel much better now
Monarch CK Leveling Feet – Options
Took a break from cleaning today and spent some time contemplating leveling feet. There are 8 Leveling feet and 8 “lagging” holes on the Monarch CK from what I can gather from the manuals and as witnessed on my machine. Basically 8 Holes are threaded for the leveling screws and the other 8 are unthreaded for lagging to the floor as suggested in the manual.
After closer inspection of my lathe two of the leveling holes have broken off bolts in them. Both of which have no good purchase – one not at all and the other just a useless fragment of remaining bolt.
Fragment on tailstock front end 
Another bad pick but you get the point 
Broken bolt flush (i know hard to see) on the head stock end
I have done my fair share of removing rusty screws from engine blocks using various methods but have never removed anything this substantial and or anything this seemingly “STUCK” before. These bolts are easily 5/8″ and the fact that they sheared off tells me they are really really stuck.
Option 1: Go the nuclear route and weld a nut onto them and see if I cant get them out. Penetrating oil does seem to absorb into these so maybe that is a good sign they might come free. I would really like to use these original leveling holes if I can.
Option 2: Go less nuclear and drill/ez-out method with much heat. As mentioned the fact that they sheared off in the first place leads me to believe this wont end well.
Option 3: Forget about them and just use the other holes with adjustable leveling feet. I like this less as I feel they put the leveling feet in the original spots for a reason and that they are the best place for them (maybe overthinking this).
Update 1: went with Option 2 to start sans the heat (did not have time to remove skid cross member). Well well, started drilling the one that was flush and if the damn thing didn’t start moving! I will take that win. Second one, well not so much fun yet. Drilled out 3/8″ hole and used 1/2″ ez out with not a budge. Heat comes tomorrow.
Ground off stump 
Started pilot 
3 to 4 more drill sizes up to 3/8″ 
1/2 EZ-OUT
One last soak in Penetrating Oil over night and again at lunch time – soak overnight did nothing, don’t expect latest soak to help much either. Torch time tonight.
Torch work did not cut it….could not get bolt hot enough. Went down the continue drilling route and re-tapped it. It worked better than expected and in short time have the hole finished an tapped.
3/4 16 Tap 
Success