Ordered replacement belts based on existing belts. Easy enough when you can still read the old belts…B83 x 3.
What I did not factor on is how poorly installed the existing ones were. Slack was completely taken out of adjustment and spacers under the motor mounts. Removed all that nonsense and reordered some B86s so I can have room to adjust.
Motor appears not original of course but reinstalled after cleanup of all the motor mounting apparatus.
More pics coming of reinstalled motor and belts once the belts get here.
In preparation of getting a new fangled VFD to power the Monarch I removed the no longer safe/necessary three phase circuit breaker and previously gutted mag switch. I will probably reuse the drum switch to control the VFD. More on VFD install soon.
Looks worse than it is. All motor leads are in good shape.
Major cleaning of motor vents in progress.
Breaker, empty mag starter box and drum switch removed.
Took a break from cleaning today and spent some time contemplating leveling feet. There are 8 Leveling feet and 8 “lagging” holes on the Monarch CK from what I can gather from the manuals and as witnessed on my machine. Basically 8 Holes are threaded for the leveling screws and the other 8 are unthreaded for lagging to the floor as suggested in the manual.
Leveling screws as shown in 1956 Monarch Lathes Handling & Installation manual
After closer inspection of my lathe two of the leveling holes have broken off bolts in them. Both of which have no good purchase – one not at all and the other just a useless fragment of remaining bolt.
Fragment on tailstock front end
Another bad pick but you get the point
Broken bolt flush (i know hard to see) on the head stock end
I have done my fair share of removing rusty screws from engine blocks using various methods but have never removed anything this substantial and or anything this seemingly “STUCK” before. These bolts are easily 5/8″ and the fact that they sheared off tells me they are really really stuck.
Option 1: Go the nuclear route and weld a nut onto them and see if I cant get them out. Penetrating oil does seem to absorb into these so maybe that is a good sign they might come free. I would really like to use these original leveling holes if I can. Option 2: Go less nuclear and drill/ez-out method with much heat. As mentioned the fact that they sheared off in the first place leads me to believe this wont end well. Option 3: Forget about them and just use the other holes with adjustable leveling feet. I like this less as I feel they put the leveling feet in the original spots for a reason and that they are the best place for them (maybe overthinking this).
Update 1: went with Option 2 to start sans the heat (did not have time to remove skid cross member). Well well, started drilling the one that was flush and if the damn thing didn’t start moving! I will take that win. Second one, well not so much fun yet. Drilled out 3/8″ hole and used 1/2″ ez out with not a budge. Heat comes tomorrow.
Ground off stump
Started pilot
3 to 4 more drill sizes up to 3/8″
1/2 EZ-OUT
One last soak in Penetrating Oil over night and again at lunch time – soak overnight did nothing, don’t expect latest soak to help much either. Torch time tonight.
Torch work did not cut it….could not get bolt hot enough. Went down the continue drilling route and re-tapped it. It worked better than expected and in short time have the hole finished an tapped.
Doing a bit of a cleanup on the CK. I am trying to avoid a teardown and rebuild but will know more as I get into the cleanup. For now, so far, all looks good and not planning on any major teardown.
Thought she was Green!
Before on the top and righ
Close up clean on left
Headstock/Levers Done
Chuck Off – Headstock Clean
Let’s look behind door # 1!
Chips impacted under headstock – they just keep coming out!
Changing/Cleaning Belt Area Up Next
End Gear Train Up Next Too
Clutch working good, not going to mess with at this point
Turns out I need to pull off the clutch and sheave to get the belt guard off for better cleanup – I am going to pass on the procedure for now and work around it. End gear train most troublesome to clean/get at but will be tackled soon.
The CK has a D1-6 spindle configuration. Came with, at first glance, a decent Cushman 3 Jaw Chuck. Still need to take a closer look at the chuck and maybe teardown and rebuild.
Naked
Chuck off resting in cradle
Cushman 3 Jaw
Needed a cheater bar, small 1″ black pipe, to slide over chuck key handles more for grip than for leverage. The cam locks were stiff but not stuck. Chuck came off with little fuss.
A week has past since we confirmed the purchase of the lathe. Have not slept much since. Dreaming of all the ways this could go wrong. Actually went pretty smooth. Forklift on sellers end made quick work of getting it on my buddies trailer. Said “buddy” is partially to blame for making this happen;). Extremely grateful to Brian for generous resource and time!
Forklift at seller’s end
On trailer in shop
Sitting on pallets on the car carrier trailer. I have pallet jack so my initial thought were to muscle it off with that and some other implements but then the reality of 3600lbs came into play.
During the week I set plan B into action. Built a skid under the lathe as I removed the pallets. Lots of blocks, 4x4s, prybars and a Johnson bar and I managed to get the skid installed for what proved to be a uneventful slide off the trailer.
Headstock End Pallet Removed
Temp Half Skid
Temp Half Skid Another View
Tailstock End Pallet Removed
Full Skid in Place – End of Trailer
On Shop Floor
Further inspection, clean-up and wiring coming soon.
Been keeping an eye out for an upgrade to my Sheldon 10 EXL 56-P. Eyed this one on semi local Craig’s list with some not to great photos but was able to tell it was a Monarch.
Monarch Lathe as Pictured on Craigslist
From the pic I thought it would be way to big for me but really could not tell for sure. Few inquiries to the poster and in fact a Monarch CK – 12×30. Big yes, too big?.. not sure so we setup a visit. Kinda like saying I am going to the animal shelter to look.
Was able to run her through all the spindle speeds and a wide range of feeds without issue. Used saddle lock method of checking any drastic wear on the ways…also without issue. Visual inspection of rack, feed screw and overall condition passed scrutiny as well. Drove home and obsessed about it for several days and researched as much as I could about these machines.
Did not get the chance to open the head stock cover – obsessed about that for sure although was comforted by the fact that the run through all the spindle speeds was remarkably smooth.
Specs for the CK (CK stands for 12″ Model C)
One of the most intimidating part of the purchase decision was the weight. I have not moved anything over one ton. Most machines in my shop are 900 to 1300 so all my previous acquisitions I was able to handle by myself. I have capabilities to lift up to 1 ton max so this move was going to take some additional planning.
Fair amount of info on the internet – not to mention Monarch Lathes appears to have pretty much all the info you could imagine for these machines as well as the ability to make just about any part necessary from the original specs. Justifiably pricey but comforting to know if you really get in a jam there is a way out.
Vintage Machinery has a fair amount of info and it so happens Keith Rucker does a complete series of a Monarch Restoration (larger and newer Model K but great process). Adam Booth Abom79 on Youtube has the bigger brother to the CK — The CY I think. Comforting to know that these two are Monarch fans and are such good resources.
Well after all things considered I bit the bullet and did the deal! I am the proud new owner of a 1944 Monarch CK!